Sandwich Nicoise

Nicoise sandwichThe warm, dry winter California experienced is bumping the seasons forward a bit this year. Trees are already changing into their autumn finery, and while the light doesn’t say, “Summer’s over,” just yet, there’s definitely a sense that it’s about to wind to an end.

Because it’s been so warm for so long, much of our summery wines had already been enjoyed, and our very last bottle of rosé sat lonely in the refrigerator. With the sense of change in the air, it felt like it was time to seize the opportunity to enjoy that lovely, pink wine while the evenings were still warm.

But what to pair it with? Salad Niçoise is always a bright and savory choice for a summer’s meal, but wouldn’t it be even better sandwiched between two halves of a sourdough roll? With such a thought in mind, I created one heck of a sandwich.

Sandwich Niçoise


Serves 2-4

2 sourdough French rolls
1 Tablespoon butter
dash of garlic powder
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs
6 new, tiny fingerling potatoes
1 Tablespoon olive tapenade (Use nicoise olives to make your tapenade if you can find them.)
anchovy paste to taste
1 very small red pepper, sliced thinly
dried parsley
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tablespoon of chopped green onions
1 can of tuna packed in olive oil
1 heirloom tomato, sliced thinly

Wash potatoes. Put a small pot of water on to boil. Sprinkle in some salt and add the potatoes. Once the water begins to do a roiling boil, carefully put the eggs in. Put on a lid and turn off the fire. Let the potatoes and eggs sit for 20 minutes. Pour off the water and rinse with cold water until the eggs are only slightly warm to the touch. Peel the eggs and slice. Cut the potatoes in half and drizzle with olive oil as well as sprinkling them with salt, pepper, and parsley. Set aside.

While the potatoes and eggs sit, warm a stove top griddle over low heat. Slice the rolls in half, butter each half and sprinkle with garlic powder. Place on the griddle until the open faces of the bread is golden brown. Remove from heat.

Spread mustard on each piece of bread. Spread tapenade on one slice of each roll and anchovy paste on the other slices. Sprinkle the onions on the tapenade side and press down lightly. Then assemble the sandwiches with the rest of the ingredients, layering carefully so everything doesn’t slide right out. I put the tuna on top of the anchovy paste, the red pepper next, then the tomato, egg slices, and finally, the potatoes.
This is a huge sandwich, so feel free to share the other half with your other half and save the other sandwich for later.
Serve with a side of green beans (a staple of Salad Niçoise), and enjoy this last breath of summer.

Crispy Pork with Baby Bok Choy

Crispy Pork with Baby Bok Choy Stir FryIt all started when I spied the prettiest baby bok choy in the produce department. It was so vibrant and crunchy and just called out for a dish to be prepared in dedication to its delectable-ness. Well okay then, a stir fry seemed in order.

I grabbed some pork, fixin’s for a sauce, and some other pretty produce and set about to make a meal. When I spoke to Charles about his thoughts for a wine to drink, he wanted to try a Barbera. An Italian varietal with an Asian meal might seem to be a rather bold choice, but the best part of wine pairing is the experimentation. The worst that can happen is that the pairing doesn’t work. The world won’t end. You won’t descend down a shame spiral. Have some water with the meal and save the wine to enjoy as a digestif while binge watching whatever current TV obsession you may be in the midst of. We learn from our choices. Sometimes they pay off. Sometimes they’re rather awful, but they’re always an adventure.

How did that bold Barbera option go with dinner? It may not have been a transcendent experience, but it actually paired pretty well. The wine complimented the pork, and nuances of flavor were brought out by the ginger and sweet chili sauce. The Barbera didn’t play along with the green beans in the dish, but all in all, I’d try it again. I might just tweak the recipe a tad — less vinegar, no beans, a little more soy sauce — in order to allow the wine to sing a bit more. My fall back wine that goes with everything, the Gazela Vinho Verde Rosé, would have worked with dinner, too. As would an amber ale. Don’t be afraid to try new things. It makes a meal more exciting.

Crispy Pork with Baby Bok Choy


Serves 4

1 lb pork loin, sliced thinly and at an angle
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 Tablespoon grapeseed oil
4 baby bok choy, coarsely chopped
1 cup green beans
1 1/2 Tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
4 Tablespoons rice vinegar
2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
1 teaspoon coconut sugar
1 Tablespoon sweet chili sauce
chopped green onions for garnish

Heat a stove-top wok or deep sauté pan over high heat.Toss pork with sesame oil, salt, and pepper and put in pan. Let sit for two minutes. Flip pieces and let sit another two minutes. Stir to make sure everything is cooked and crispy. Remove from pan and set aside.
Place pan back over high heat. Add oil. Toss in bok choy and stir fry for two minutes then add green beans, garlic, and bell pepper and stir for an additional three minutes. Turn heat down to the lowest setting.
Add vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and chili sauce to a mason jar. Screw on the lid and shake until everything is completely mixed. Stir in the sauce and toss until the sauce is warmed.
Sprinkle the green onions on top and serve with rice.

BYOB: Brew Your Own Beer

Yolo BrewingIf you can bake a cake, you can brew beer.

And I’m not even talking an angel food cake, where you have to tiptoe through the kitchen as it bakes after combining the ingredients in exactly the right order in exactly the right way so the moody creation rises light and fluffy. Oh no, brewing beer is a lot more like throwing together a pound cake. You still need to follow the directions, but if you get a little extra vanilla extract in there, it’s not going to destroy the final product. Plus, you can listen to your punk turned up to 11 while it cooks.

My friends Eryn and Ellen met Charles and me at Yolo Brewing Company this last weekend to brew some Belgian Pale Ale. Our group had done this a few times before at Yolo’s last incarnation, Brew It Up. In the past, we crafted an Orange Blossom Blonde, an Irish Amber, a Pilsner, and created our own brew using an existing Brown recipe and adding peppers to it. It’s a great way to spend the day, eat some pub-type food, and visit – all while creating beer that you get to take home in a few weeks.

Yolo Brewing Company is located in West Sacramento inside a repurposed warehouse. The air is thick with the gorgeous smells of malt and hops as well as the tantalizing aromas of the dishes being offered up by the food trucks situated right outside the front doors.

A brewmaster guides each group through the process of making grains, water, hops, etc. into beer. We were lucky to be assigned to Phil, who had also worked in the Brew It Up days and had years of experience to share with us.
Measure
First, we got our grains. For our Belgian Pale Ale, that included Pilsner Malt, Munich, Vienna, Victory, and Carastan. Then we milled and mashed the grain. We ground the grain and put it into three bags, adding it to our kettle when the water was at 156 degrees F. The grains were steeped for 45 minutes and mashed every five minutes. To mash, you use a large, wooden paddle, stirring the liquid while carefully moving the bags around, a minute for each mash session. Then more heat was added to the kettle, until it reached 165 degrees. The bags were wrapped around the wooden paddle and squeezed out – well as much as was possible. Charles and Eyrn did an excellent job, and we should be treated to a little extra alcohol in our bottles thanks to their hard work.
Kettle Time
More water was then added to the beautiful copper kettle and heated to 180 degrees. After that, it was time for the extract! We used Brewers Gold Malt Extract. After measuring the proper amount, we set the pitcher of extract in a metal basket on top of the liquid in the kettle. The heat and steam quickly coaxed the extract into the roiling wort, and after a few minutes, it was time for hops!

There are three hop properties – bittering, flavoring, and aroma. Our bittering hops were Haller and Hersbru. Our flavoring were Saaz, and our aroma hops were a combination of all three. We used an Irish moss for our wort clarifier and an adjunct of clear candy sugar. This was our first beer that used sugar, and it was quite fun to — in essence — add rock candy to our brew. The bittering hops and moss were added first. Thirty minutes later, in went the flavoring hops. The aroma hops were added after the heat was turned off. Honestly, I can’t remember when we added the sugar. I was three pints in by that point – oops. That’s why you have a brewmaster keeping an eye on you. 😉

And there was our wort, beautiful and brown, tasting of roasted marshmallows. Because of the adjunct, this wort was sweeter than the ones we’ve tasted for previous brews.

A heat exchanger cooled the wort, and was then ready to be pumped into our barrel. For the last step, our yeast was added – 1214. Once the wort had been inoculated with our happy, beneficial yeast, it was time to cap off our bucket and wait. For our Belgian Pale Ale, that wait is five weeks. The only beer we’ve waited for longer was our Pilsner.

It’s so hard to be patient, but at the end of that time, we’ll return to bottle our glorious creation – all 12.4 gallons worth.

Slow Cooker Stout Chili

chiliI don’t know what it is about chili and summertime, but the two go together like best buds. While it’s a hot and spicy meal, it’s also really satisfying – even when the mercury is hovering around 100 degrees F.

Of course, since it is incredibly hot outside, I kept the temperature nice inside by using the slow cooker. It’s a perfect way to make chili, as the flavors have hours to slowly meld, incorporating the savory, sweet, and spicy into a taste bud pleasing whole.

Using stout in the chili is the perfect way to round out the flavors. It supports the malty, molasses flavors while complimenting the chipotle spice. Pair the dish with a summer beer, like Anderson Valley’s Summer Solstice (it was amazing with the chili) and a cornbread muffin, and this humble dish magically transforms to almost Manna-like proportions. Well, maybe not to that extent, but it is a pretty pleasurable dinner.

A quick note on the spice blend I used – it was Frontier’s Blackened Seafood Seasoning. Here’s the thing about “specific” seasonings – they’re still just a blend of herbs and spices. Don’t feel like it’s just for use on one type of meat. It’s a blend. Use it wherever you see fit. This specific seasoning would also be fantastic on chicken — or even tofu — and I used it on ground pork, which was perfect.

Slow Cooker Stout Chili


Serves 8

50 oz. canned kidney beans, drained and rinsed (If using dried beans, soak overnight.)
56 oz. canned fire roasted tomatoes, crushed (I used Muir Glen)
1 pound ground pork
22 oz. stout (I used Lagunitas Imperial Stout)
1 yellow onion, chopped
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
Hot sauce, to taste (I used O’Brother, That’s Hot Chipotle Habanero Pepper Sauce)
2 teaspoons salt
Spice blend, to taste

Brown pork in a skillet over medium-high heat. Shake in spice blend while pork is cooking. Add onion and garlic and stir. (I used a pork that wasn’t greasy, but if yours is, make sure to dab up the excess grease with a paper towel.)
Pour into a slow cooker, spreading it evenly over the bottom. Add beans, tomatoes, stout, hot sauce, and salt. Cover and cook on low for nine hours.
Taste and add more salt, spice blend, and hot sauce as needed.

Mexikale Salad

Mexikale SaladSummertime is salad time in our household. Why heat up the house with cooked food when there are so many fresh, local vegetables available? As a celebration for the abundance of summer produce, I tossed together a baby kale salad with ingredients inspired by Mexican food. It was tasty, if I do say so myself. Since this is my blog, I guess that’s rather redundant, but there you go. Why the bad pun title, you may ask? Well, when it comes to Mexican food married with California cuisine, laid out on a bed of kale — I just couldn’t help myself. Blame the journalism training.

This salad is perfect on its own, but if you wanted to get even fancier, you could add some crumbled, blue corn tortilla chips and a sprinkling of queso fresco to create a taco salad. Whichever way you go, serve this bad boy with a beer. We paired our dinner with a Big Sky Brewing Co. I.P.A. I’m not a fan of I.P.A.s that beat up your taste buds with hops, but Big Sky’s version has enough of a malty backbone to make for an enjoyable drinking experience.

Mexikale Salad


Serves 2

2 oz of baby kale salad mix
7 oz of black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup of sweet corn kernels
1 large bell pepper, chopped into small pieces
1 large avocado, chopped
2 large tomatoes, chopped
1/4 cup red onion, chopped

1 teaspoon jalapeno pepper, finely chopped
juice from one lime
1 Tablespoon sour cream
1 teaspoon taco seasoning

chopped cilantro for garnish

Place veggies in a large bowl.
Put jalapeno, lime juice, sour cream, and taco seasoning in a jar with a lid. Shake until well mixed. Pour over the salad and toss until everything is coated. Divide into two bowls and garnish with cilantro.

Roasted Sriracha Cashews

Roasted Sriracha CashewsWho says fireworks are only for the sky? While the US’ Independence Day may have been yesterday, that doesn’t mean you can’t set off some food fireworks on your tongue — in the form of roasted sriracha cashews.

For an added layer of umami, I tossed the cashews in a teriyaki sauce before coating them in sriracha. The result was a bite of “Hello, spicy!” followed by savory and ending with the creamy characters of the cashew. What an addictive snack! Serve these with a beer, microbrew of course. A Pale Ale or Pilsner would be quite nice, tempering the spice and cutting through a bit of the fattiness of the nuts.

Roasted Sriracha Cashews


1 pound plain cashews
2 Tablespoons teriyaki sauce
2 Tablespoons sriracha sauce

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
In a large bowl, toss cashews with teriyaki sauce. Let sit for a couple of minutes.
Toss with sriracha sauce until fully coated and let sit another couple of minutes.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread the cashews in a single layer over the paper.
Roast for 20 minutes, stirring the cashews at the 5, 10, and 15 minute marks.
Remove from oven and allow the cashews to cool completely.

Kale and Chickpea Soup

Kale and chickpea soupI have one of those recipes that I go back to again and again. It’s one of those dishes that makes you feel better after eating it, and it’s chock full of good-for-you ingredients. You know, all that stuff you’re supposed to eat on a regular basis like kale and tomatoes and legumes.

Because it’s a soup, the flavors meld into a savory, sweet, and slightly earthy experience that’s even better the second day. The recipe was given to me by one of our local farmers, and then I changed it up a bit, i.e., I dumped a bunch of wine into the dish. The extra wine gives the soup an amazing tang, and you can use what’s leftover to drink with your meal. I mean — what a win-win! For the leftovers, I’d recommend pairing with a Sauvignon Blanc. The acidity and citrus flavors go really well with my favorite soup.

This recipe is going to be two-fold. The first recipe is the way I’ve been making it for years, and the second is what I did this past week — utilizing a crock pot so a delicious, wholesome soup was ready and waiting when I got back from my afternoon run.

Kale and Chickpea (Garbanzo Bean) Soup


serves 8

2 onions or shallots, diced small
1 1/2 teaspoons of fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon of dried
3-4 Tablespoons of olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, minced
¼ t. pepper flakes
4 large tomatoes, fresh
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
2 1/3 cup white wine
6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves torn small
1 ½ cups dry garbanzo beans, cooked, or two 15 oz. cans of chickpeas
Salt and pepper

If using dry chickpeas, soak overnight. Cook them in at least four cups of water for three hours until soft. Be sure not to put salt in until peas are fully cooked. Cook the onions and thyme in the olive oil over medium until soft. Increase the heat and add the garlic, pepper flakes, tomatoes, bay leaf, salt and 1/3 cup wine. Stew for 15 minutes. Add the cooked chickpeas and the 8 cups of liquid. Simmer for 20-30 minutes to let the peas absorb the flavors. Add the kale leaves and cook ten more minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Slow Cooker Kale and Chickpea Soup

Slow Cooker Kale and Chickpea (Garbanzo Bean) Soup


serves 8

2 onions or shallots, diced small
1 1/2 teaspoons of fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon of dried
3 cloves of garlic, minced
¼ t. pepper flakes
4 large tomatoes, fresh
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
2 1/3 cup white wine
6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves torn small
Two 15 oz. cans of chickpeas
Salt and pepper to taste

Layer all ingredients into a slow cooker except the kale, salt, and pepper. Place onions and garlic on the bottom, followed by the tomatoes, and then the chickpeas. Sprinkle herbs over everything and pour liquids in. Turn the slow cooker on to low, and let it cook eight to nine hours. Put in the kale and continue to cook on the low setting for another 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

Grilled Plums

grilled-plumsWhat is it about cooking fruit that turns it from a snack to a decadent dessert? Maybe it’s the caramelizing of the sugars in the fruit? Maybe the sauces one feels compelled to drizzle over the finished product? Maybe it’s just that summer alchemy of grilling on a warm evening, making something more than what it was before?

Grilled Plums

  • Difficulty: oh so easy
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serves 2

2 ripe plums, sliced in half, pits removed
2 tablespoons Laychee, crème fraîche, or vanilla ice cream
drizzle of honey

Warm up the grill to medium-high heat. Place plums face down and cook two minutes. Flip over and cook another minute. If the plums are still firm, flip once more face down for two more minutes.
Spoon choice of creamy goodness into the divot of each plum, drizzle with honey, and serve while still warm — perhaps with a small glass of Rosenblum’s Désirée Chocolate Dessert Wine for even more decadence?

A Chilled Soup for a Hot Day

Chilled Potato and Asparagus SoupThe West is really warming up. There are places already experiencing 100 degree F days, and it’s not even June!

It may be heating up, but that doesn’t mean the time for soup is over. There are tomato gazpachos, fruit soups, and more. Since it’s not so hot — yet — that no one even feels like eating, a heartier chilled soup seemed in order. Inspired by Cowgirl Creamery‘s amazing Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup, I made a version that incorporated my seasonal farm share from Pennyroyal Farmstead. This thick, creamy, and decadent meal paired perfectly with a slightly creamy Sauvignon Blanc, Husch’s “The Press,” a secondary label they created for the 2012 vintage. 2012 was a wonderful year with an amazing yield. Its grassy, citrus nose and lemon custard in the glass paired — as I said before — perfectly with the asparagus and goat cheese in the soup.

Creamy Potato and Asparagus Chilled Soup


serves 4

1 small bulb of green garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon salted butter
1 large and 1 medium Yukon Gold potato, peeled and chopped
1 sweet yellow onion, chopped
3 cups chicken stock
approximately 1/2 cup crème fraîche
12 asparagus spears, chopped
1 cup Chive Flower Laychee (or you could use ricotta)
drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
pinch of salt
freshly ground black pepper

Over medium heat, melt butter in a soup pot. Toss in garlic, potatoes, and onion and stir. Cover with a lid and cook for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are soft. Add stock and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer for ten minutes. Turn off heat and stir in crème fraîche.
In a large bowl, create an ice bath with ice and water, setting a slightly smaller bowl inside.
In one cup increments, purée the soup in a food processor or blender. Pour into the bowl inside the ice bath. Place into the refrigerator and wait for soup to chill.
In the same soup pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Throw in asparagus and cook until it becomes bright green but is still just a bit crunchy. Drain and dry in paper towels.
This is my favorite tip from Cowgirl Creamery — instead of blanching the asparagus, toss it with olive oil and the salt and pepper. The asparagus absorbs more flavor while it’s still warm. I found this to be quite true! Put asparagus in a container and place in the fridge until ready to add to the soup.
When soup is chilled, pour into four bowls. Stir in asparagus, reserving tips for garnish. Dollop in small spoonfuls of Laychee. Garnish with asparagus tips and serve.

Eating Milwaukee

MilwaukeeI was in Milwaukee last week on a business trip. While most of the breakfasts and lunches were catered, dinner was up to us. I must say, I was very gastronomically pleased with Milwaukee. It was my first trip to the Midwest, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. No matter where I went for the evening’s cuisine, I left satisfied — with many the food coma to prove that I enjoyed my meal to the fullest.

Here are my top five eateries from my week in Milwaukee:

1. Wolf Peach
This was a can’t miss experience. I’m still reeling from the wonders of the evening, and it’s been a week and a half! Wolf Peach focuses on European dishes with a communal dining experience. Our party of ten was urged to order two dishes each and then share with the group. Everything was delectable in the extreme. Dishes of note: smoked bone marrow, the mixed charcuterie board, slow-poached egg pizza, deviled duck eggs, and roasted broccoli. I also enjoyed a Dragon’s Milk Bourbon Barrel Stout from New Holland Brewing while I waited for the rest of the party to arrive at the restaurant. It was amazing.

2. Umami Moto
Lovely sushi, and really tasty dessert, too! Dishes of note: tuna roll, the best unagi nigiri I’ve had in a long time (unagi is one of my most favorite things in the world), and their salmon roll.

3. Kil@wat
Located in the hotel, not only was this a welcome respite after a day of travel, the food was also fantastic. I ordered the rosemary polenta cake dinner. The slightly smoky polenta on top of a bed of baby arugula with goat cheese and a raspberry-balsamic reduction was divine. The waiter recommended a South African wine, Protea. Its black fruit and espresso flavors were balanced by lovely minerals and a bit of smokiness. It was perfect with dinner.

4. Water Buffalo
Recommended because it carries local ingredients, Water Buffalo made for a terrific last dinner in the city. I ordered the grilled Berkshire pork loin. The combination of the tarragon mashed potatoes with the apricot Dijon glaze that was drizzled on the pork — OMG delicious. They also served up the largest crème brûlée I have ever seen. Make sure to share it with a friend.

5. Café Calatrava
Found inside the Milwaukee Art Museum, this restaurant is surrounded by gorgeousness. After filling your soul with the museum’s great collections, sit in the cafe that’s situated right on the waterfront. I slowly savored a light lunch of fresh fish paired with ramps and a roasted wedge of polenta while hungrily gazing out at Lake Michigan.

Looking for more of my travel “Eating” blogs? Check out Winchester, Portland, Anderson Valley, and Healdsburg.

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